For those mourning the loss of the London Spy knitwear selection and those who find War and Peace menswear from the 1800s, you know, a tad out of touch, then your telly fashion saviour arrived on Sunday night in the shape of Deutschland 83. Two parts JW Anderson, one part Bernard Sumner, the series establishes its fashion credentials before the opening credits are done. Here’s what we’re into, sartorially speaking.
Wardrobe was unapologetically integral to the plot from the get go
The first step of East German Martin Rauch becoming West German Moritz Stamm is via the universal medium of fashion. The reluctant undercover agent has pushed his West German wardrobe across the table. Folded up are a pair of darker jeans, a red Puma T-shirt and a pair of Stan Smiths. Retro sportswear that the 2016 world can relate to.
But that’s not to say that we didn’t love his East German look
Rauch’s mid-blue jeans and a checked shirt are ultra-norm in a hardware-store-shopper kinda way. But on a man who channels George Barnett, Hedi Slimane model and drummer from These New Puritans, the so-non-it’s-good-look could have been a reference point for the normcore movement.
The 80s tracksuits were good
When the West German army jogs, it jogs in style. The sight of Stamm training in a forest in a cerulean blue tracksuit unzipped to the top of the windpipe was so close to the designs of cult Russian menswear designer Gosha Rubchinskiy it hurt. The starting point for Rubchinskiy’s catwalk was the 1984 Olympics that were boycotted by the USSR. An ever-decreasing circle of fashion, sport and politics references.
The haircut was standout
Speaking of cyclical references, we’ve restrained ourselves long enough, let’s talk about Stamm’s majestic haircut. It’s sooo Barney Sumner, and considering that early New Order were keen on a Germanic style reference we can only infer that the wardrobe department knew exactly what they were doing. A few bars of Blue Monday here and there unlined this point. His codename in the drama is Kolibri, so we’re calling this cut the Kolibri.
Lenora Rauch, Martin’s aunt appears to have just stepped off the JW Anderson catwalk
With her asymmetric silk collars and hard 80s side parting and curls, this Stasi agent has much to give on the fashion front. The designer has in previous seasons admitted to being inspired by cold-war party girls. For her part, Lenora is a bit Sigourney Weaver, a bit Roxy Music. Particularly like what’s going on with her necklines.
The sets are very ‘fashion shoot’
The bareness, the East German chairs, the short pile carpets. It’s all straight out of the fashion campaign visual rulebook. For hard-core fashion types it’s hard not to think of Prada when watching it.
A bit of new era Gucci crept in too
With her pale-pink top and deep-pink swishy skirt and braid detail hair Yvonne Edel, aka the West German Boss’ daughter, seemed to have caught the Alessandro Michele for Gucci spirit. If only she had borrowed Stamm’s red beret too.